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19TH CENTURY EMBROIDERED BUCKSKIN TROUSERS –
WONDERFUL
FRONTIER CLOTHING WITH A CLASSIC APPEARANCE IN VERY GOOD CONDITION: The
kind of special items that are only found in very old
collections, this pair of 19th Century Buckskin
Embroidered Trousers were acquired long ago and have been salted
away in the same collection for decades.
The private or commercial manufacture of buckskin
clothing such as coats, vests, and trousers dates back
to the early years of our nation’s history, and although
surprising to most collectors, the use of sewing
machines to produce this clothing began commensurate
with the introduction of those early time saving
machines. In addition to the clothing made by family
members for their personal use, and the clothing
produced in small shops throughout the frontier, there
were large firms in the eastern cities which were
dedicated to meeting the large demand for buckskin
clothing. Sales were brisk to frontiersmen, the
immigrant trains headed west, and soldiers and officers
alike in the army, for all of these consumers recognized
the comfortable, durable and protective qualities of
buckskin clothing.
Dated 1876, this period photograph (above) captured
Capt. Julius Wilmot Mason (right), Co. K, 5TH
US Cavalry Regiment and a companion officer on campaign
in the field. The 5TH Cavalry was posted on
the northern plains in 1876 and they spent much of that
summer and fall in the field chasing the hostiles who
had defeated the 7TH Cavalry at the Little
Big Horn. Both of these officers are dressed in the
manner of seasoned campaigners, and of special interest,
the unidentified officer on the left is wearing a pair
of buckskin trousers which are fringed down the outside
of each leg – photographic evidence that these buckskin
trousers were worn by army personnel on the frontier.
Fashioned from buckskin, this pair of trousers was made
in a style consistent with buckskin clothing worn across
the American West during the 19th Century, and was
assembled with machine sewing, using cotton thread.
This pair shows evidence of having been worn outdoors in
the elements, and the light soiling and aging it
displays is commensurate with other examples of buckskin
clothing from the mid to late 19th Century. This pair
of trousers was not worn to destruction, they have not
been abused or stored improperly, and they present in
remarkably very good condition.
Fashioned from native tanned buckskin - very likely
brain tanned - these trousers were made in the style
consistent with buckskin clothing worn across the
American West during the 19th Century, and were
assembled with machine sewing, using cotton thread.
Highlighting the upper section of the trousers is a
series of embroidered patterns in red and blue thread.
The patterns are executed in extremely fine stitches,
obviously hand applied by a skilled artist. The red
thread remains vivid, and the blue has faded slightly
with age. This embroidery suggests a great deal about
the man who wore these trousers. Possibly he was a
Southwestern pistolero in El Paso, Santa Fe, or Tucson,
or an eccentric army officer in some remote frontier
post given to such excesses in his uniforming, or
perhaps a performer in one of the many Wild West shows
of the era – whatever the situation of the owner, he cut
a fine figure and made quite a statement in these
trousers.
The waist band, the area around the fly and the cuffs of
the legs are all embellished with an additional layer of
matching buckskin cut with decorative edges and sewn in
place with lines of decorative stitching. Not only did
these overlays create a dimensional decoration to these
areas, but the additional layer served to reinforce
these areas which would be subjected to the most
wear.
The pants are trimmed with fringe along the bottom of
the front and back pocket openings, across the hip line
on the front and back, and along the outside seams of
the legs. The fringe is overall soft and pliable, and
the vast majority of the strands are present and full
length – both unusual qualities in leather clothing of
this vintage.
The edges of the front and back pocket openings are
trimmed in scarlet material which is generally intact
with minor points of wear, and the corners of the pocket
openings are reinforced with a decorative triangle of
brown velvet.
Finally, the trousers are trimmed with ¼” in diameter
brass shoe buttons on each side of the fly, along the
bottom of the back pocket openings, and along the
outside seam of both legs. The buttons along the leg
seams are anchored in hand embroidered faux button holes
– no button hole, but rather a decorative outline of a
button hole. All of the buttons are present on each
side of the fly and along the back pocket openings, and
most of those along the leg seam are present, with only
a few missing at the lower extreme of the legs where
they would have been exposed to the most wear. It is
worth noting that brass shoe buttons were one of the
earlier and most consistent of the trade goods carried
out west by the traveling fur traders and by those who
established trading posts near the Indian reservations.
Measuring 27” along the inseam and with a
(approximately) 28” waist, these trousers present in
very good condition. The leather is soft and pliable
with only a couple of small areas down low on the legs
which have hardened due to repeated wettings when
exposed to the elements. The rear of the waist band has
suffered some wear to the leather and this area has been
reinforced with two patches. There is a small (1/2”)
wear opening at the crotch that isn’t visible, and a
small split (3/4” long) low on the right leg, just above
the cuff. The bottom edge of the rear of left leg has
wear where the owner apparently walked on the edge with
the heel of his boot or moccasin. The fly is secured
with a 19TH century metal button at the waist
and with bone buttons down the length of the fly.
In spite of having found several pairs in the same long
standing collection, these buckskin trousers are quite
scarce. This type of frontier clothing was worn in
extreme conditions, was often used to complete
destruction, survived in very low numbers, and seldom
does it appear on the collector’s market. These 19TH
Century Buckskin Trousers evoke any number of colorful
images associated with the American West and they would
be appropriate to display with a wide scope of Western
collections including frontier soldier, scout,
gunfighter, gambler, buffalo hunter and the like.
This is a very attractive pair of 19TH
Century Buckskin Trousers from
a time when the cut and decoration of a man’s clothing
spoke volumes about who he was, and how he regarded
himself, these trousers must have made quite the
statement. these
trousers are definitely a one of a kind offering which
would be difficult to best. (0505) $1550
NOTE: To say that photographing
material of any kind - wool or leather - is a challenge is an understatement.
Normal lighting is seldom sufficient and none of the
finer features or condition details can be seen clearly. In
order to highlight the features and provide you with an
accurate view of the item, I have to lighten the
contrast of the photograph which in turn causes the even
color of the buckskin to appear discolored or blotchy when such is not the case. The
color of these trousers is even and consistent except
where naturally stained or discolored through period
use. Trust that you
will not be disappointed in these trousers.
NOTE:
If you are interested in other Native American
pieces and artifacts related to the American West,
browse through those listings via this link:
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