19TH CENTURY BUCKSKIN JACKET – GREAT
FRONTIER APPEARANCE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION: The
kind of special items that are only found in very old
collections, this 19th Century Buckskin Jacket was
acquired long ago and has been held in the same
collection for many years.
The private or commercial manufacture of buckskin
clothing such as coats, vests, and trousers dates back
to the early years of our nation’s history, and although
surprising to most collectors, the use of sewing
machines to produce this clothing began commensurate
with the introduction of those early time saving
machines. In addition to the clothing made by family
members for their personal use, and the clothing
produced in small shops throughout the frontier, there
were large firms in the eastern cities which were
dedicated to meeting the large demand for buckskin
clothing. Sales were brisk to frontiersmen, the
immigrant trains headed west, and soldiers and officers
alike in the army, for all of these consumers recognized
the comfortable, durable and protective qualities of
buckskin clothing.
Buckskin jackets of this very same style were very
popular in the west, worn by such high profile
luminaries as George Armstrong Custer and several of his
officers, as well as Buffalo Bill Cody. All of these
known jackets of that period appear to share the same
cut and styling of the military uniforms of the era –
not surprising considering the market which the
manufacturers were targeting. The narrow collar, the
overall tailored fit, the overlays at the cuffs and
pocket fronts and the saw toothed edging used throughout
were all characteristics shared by these jackets. The
most dramatic feature which was an obvious nod to the
style of the clothing worn by the Plains Tribes was the
use of fringe along the backs of the sleeves, over the
peak of the shoulders, across the back, and as in the
case of this jacket, across the breast. Capturing the
spirit and fashion of the west, these jackets were the
iconic signature garment worn by the frontiersmen of the
era.
GEORGE A. CUSTER'S BUCKSKIN JACKET
(Smithsonian Institute)

Officers and scientists of the Black
Hills Expedition, August 1874
1 - William Ludlow, Captain, Corps of
Engineers
Fashioned from buckskin, this jacket was made in the
style consistent with buckskin clothing worn across the
American West during the 19th Century, and was assembled
with machine sewing, using cotton thread. The jacket
shows evidence of having been worn outdoors in the
elements, and the light soiling and aging it displays is
commensurate with other buckskin clothing from the mid
to late 19th Century. Fortunately not worn to
destruction, this jacket has not been abused or stored
improperly, and it presents in remarkably excellent
condition.
In spite of this excellent condition in which this
jacket presents, in reality surviving specimens are
quite scarce. This type of frontier clothing was worn
in extreme conditions, was often used to complete
destruction, survived in very low numbers, and seldom
does it appear on the collector’s market.
This 19TH
Century Buckskin Jacket evokes any number of colorful
images associated with the American West and it would be
appropriate to display with a wide scope of Western
collections including frontier soldier, scout,
gunfighter, gambler, buffalo hunter and the like. This
jacket would make a particularly dramatic display when
paired with any of the dark blue uniform shirts or
uniform trousers, representative of the combinations of
uniform items and personal purchase clothing known to
have been worn in the field by the frontier soldiers.
This jacket presents in excellent condition and the
leather is soft and pliable with none of the hardened
areas so often found on these old buckskin garments.
The leather is clean and free of any stains or heavy
soiling, save for an elongated narrow stain over the
right hip on a level with the wearer’s waist line – the
location over which the man would have worn his pistol.
While there’s no way to know for sure, the location and
shape of this stain makes a very compelling suggestion
as to its source. There is a small hole in the hide
immediately below the right shoulder crest, probably the
result of the skinning or tanning process. All of the
seams are intact, as are all of the pieces of fringe,
with none broken or missing. The edges of the front
plackets, the pockets, the cuff trim, and the bottom are
all cut with decorative saw tooth trim. The front of
the jacket is closed at the throat with a single brass
button, and down the front with three pairs of
decorative ties, each tie finished with a rolled
tassel. The manner these tassels are formed is
reminiscent of the tassels on the US Army sabre knots of
the Indian War period, perhaps a carry over of the
owner’s military service.
This is a very attractive 19TH Century
Buckskin Jacket which evokes any number of colorful
images associated with the American West. Made by a
skilled tailor with attention to detail and an eye for
frontier fashion of the day, this rare jacket dates from
a time when the cut and decoration of a man’s clothing
spoke volumes about who he was, and how he regarded
himself and this jacket must have made quite the
statement. Appropriate to display with a wide scope of
Western collections including frontier soldier, scout,
gunfighter, gambler, buffalo hunter and the like, this
jacket is definitely a one of a kind offering which
would be almost impossible to best.
(0111)
$3750
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