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OFFICER’S BLUE WOOL DRESS SADDLE CLOTH – TRIMMED IN YELLOW LEATHER FOR A CAVALRY OFFICER:  Following the dimensions and style of an Officer’s Dress Saddle Cloth as described in the various Ordnance Department manuals, this Cavalry Officer’s Dress Saddle Cloth was retrieved from an old San Antonio estate more than thirty years ago.  When it was found, the blue wool exterior panels were almost completely destroyed; having fallen victim to heavy use in service, being put away soiled and then subjected to poor storage conditions which turned the wool – what was left of it - into a hardened cracker-like material that was crumbling away like so much powder.  Still, despite the loss of the outer cloth, the surviving body panels of the saddle cloth and most importantly, the bright cavalry-yellow leather trim around the edges were present and in remarkably very good condition and they argued for the effort necessary to restore this piece to its former glory. 

Officer’s dress saddle cloths have never been common, probably because the few that survived their original service met the same fate as this specimen and once damaged, were disposed of.  While my intentions to restore this cloth were honorable, it became one of those projects that was shelved when life worked hard to fill up all the available time – “life is what happens when you make plans….”.   

Before I became completely distracted, I was able to track down the correct “Melton Cloth” – the dark blue wool – which was the cloth originally used in the 19TH Century to manufacture these dress saddle cloths.  That alone was no mean feat and it required considerable searching.  This special wool gives the saddle cloth a very distinctive  appearance as opposed to using more common heavier napped wool which in not intended for this sort of application or exposure to the elements.   

Developed in the Leicestershire, England town of Melton-Mowbray from which the cloth takes its name, “Melton” cloth is woven in a twill form and traditionally made of wool.  It is a very solid cloth, due to the finishing processes completely concealing the twill weaving pattern.  Melton is thicker than other comparative weaves, having been well fulled – a step in wool cloth making which involves cleansing the woven cloth to eliminate lanolin oils, dirt, and other impurities, and to make the fibers shrink by friction and pressure, creating a smooth, finished fabric which is insulating and water repellant.  The finished cloth is then sheared and napped to create a quasi-felted texture which resists fraying and a cloth that is hard wearing and weather resistant.    

I made the pattern for the exterior panels and cut the Melton Cloth panels which are now ready to stitch in place.  In addition to the Melton Cloth, I was also able to find an original spool of new-old stock bullion trim and the matching metallic thread with which I intended to trim the cloth as it would have been made for a senior officer.   

All of the stitching lines along the yellow enameled trim and along the leather spine are intact and the holes are stable and strong enough to take the stitches to reassemble the cloth.  The stitching through the existing holes is a relatively brain-less rote exercise using a double needle and thread arrangement.  With a needle on each end of a single length of linen saddler’s thread which has been sized to the holes, the needles are passed – one from the top, one from the bottom – through each hole, snug up the slack and repeat.  Just the sort of project to do while positioned to watch an old John Wayne movie.  

Whether you chose to add the gold bullion trim or not will be a personal call, but this is probably your one chance to have a fully ornamented officer’s dress saddle cloth.  If you choose to add the bullion trim, that should be done prior to mounting the Melton panels to the canvas backing.   

Once you’ve examined the various parts, the process of reassembly is pretty much self explanatory, however if you are hesitant to commit or you don’t feel your stitching skills are up to the task, I suggest you contact a craft store that supplies quilting supplies and lessons.  They normally have a cadre of very skilled quilters.  Among their ranks you may very well find an experienced seamstress, used to dealing with multiple layers of various fabrics who would be willing to tackle the reassembly of this saddle cloth for a reasonable amount.   

In spite of the evidence of use, this saddle cloth – save for the outer wool - survived in full form and in very solid condition.  The yellow enameled border trim is present around the entire edge of both sides.  The yellow enameled finish is overall vivid with the only significant wear being where the girth straps snugged against the trim along the bottom edge on both sides.  The khaki cotton duck material of both sides is still strong with no weak or rotted spots.  The russet leather spine is full length and retains it full width with all the stitching holes intact.       

Having handled dozens of these saddle cloths held in museum and private collections in the course of the research for The American Military Saddle 1776-1945, it was quite apparent that these cloths were subjected to heavy use and wear.  Understandably, the thorough soaking of horse sweat and the accumulated and concentrated deposits of body salts from the horse rendered these cloths especially prone to deterioration and eventual disposal.  Hence, surviving examples of these cloths in any condition are not common today, making those worthy of displaying relatively scarce.  With the added value of being trimmed for use by a cavalry officer in full dress occasions, this Officer’s Dress Saddle Cloth is well worth the effort to restore it, and it will be a striking example to display with your saddle. (0124) $475 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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